Startup turns accidental lab discovery into next-generation skincare technology

A chance discovery in a University of Arizona lab at the College of Medicine - Tucson is now the foundation of a startup working to improve how one of the most widely used biomolecules performs in skincare and medicine.

Hyapeptides, a newly launched company built on a U of A-developed technology, is advancing a novel class of hyaluronic acid–binding peptides designed to enhance skin hydration and appearance.

A discovery by accident

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The breakthrough began with Kyle Koss, who is currently an assistant professor at the University of Texas Medical Branch and the Sealy Institute for Drug Discovery. At the time of the discovery, he was working as a postdoctoral researcher at the U of A. His research focused on tissue engineering, including developing materials for artificial organs.

While studying peptides designed to bind components of the body’s extracellular matrix, Koss noticed something unexpected.

“We were seeing that they were very powerful binders, but we happened to see … that they were forming gels,” he said. “And this was new to us … We were shocked by this result.” 

After repeating the experiments, the team confirmed the phenomenon. The peptides were not only binding to hyaluronic acid. They were organizing it into stable, gel-like structures.

“It pulls it together like a polymer of sorts into a gel and traps the water,” Koss said. 

Improving a widely used ingredient

Hyaluronic acid, or HA, is a naturally occurring moisture-binding molecule in the skin, but it is also a cornerstone ingredient in skincare and medical treatments because of its ability to retain water and support tissue structure. But as an additive, it has limitations. Most topical products are able to deliver HA only at the surface level, where it degrades quickly and provide only short-term benefits.

Hyapeptides is commercializing the innovation Koss developed to overcome this limitation. Unlike passive ingredients, these peptides actively bind to HA and anchor it within the body's extracellular matrix, dramatically improving retention and efficacy. Preliminary results demonstrate that these peptides bind the compound three to four times more effectively than competing HA-binding peptides currently on the market.

Building a company around the discovery

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Recognizing the commercial potential of the technology, Koss partnered with longtime collaborator Alejandro Rodriguez to launch Hyapeptides. The two have known one another since 2013 and have collaborated on multiple projects over the years. 

Regarding their long-standing working relationship, Rodreguez said, “It was natural for us to work together … on Hyapeptides as an extension.” 

The startup team has since expanded to include medical and business expertise, helping position the company to move from lab research to real-world applications.

A strategic entry point

While the technology has potential therapeutic applications for wound healing and ocular and joint diseases, the startup is initially focusing on cosmetics as a market entry point. The team is exploring multiple approaches, including developing its own products and partnering with established companies.

“We could do a straight-to-market product … or the B2B strategy,” Koss said. “We’re thinking through which one of these – or a hybrid of both – makes the most sense.” 

Support from Tech Launch Arizona

Hyapeptides’ path from university research to startup has been facilitated by Tech Launch Arizona, the unit of the Office for Research and Partnerships that works with innovators to protect the intellectual property of UA inventions and bring them to market.

“Tech Launch was instrumental in helping us, and we’ve had excellent guidance from everybody on the team,” Koss said. 

Through programs like NSF I-Corps, the team also tested its ideas with potential customers and refined its strategy.

“It really helped crystallize what strategy we were going at,” Koss said. “It kind of was a reality check for us.” 

Looking ahead

In the coming months, Hyapeptides will focus on securing funding and generating data to validate its technology.

“We need to have data,” Rodriguez said, “And to have data, we need to have funding.”

Beyond cosmetics, the team believes the peptides could support future advances in areas such as drug delivery and biomaterials by helping control how molecules behave in the body.

But for now, the team, with its unique product and market fit, is focused on building momentum.

“At this stage, we’re only competing with ourselves,” Rodriguez said.